After spring-blooming trees and shrubs have completed their show, the very best summer provider of color for the garden is a crape myrtle. This tree blooms in a variety of colors: red, pink, white, lavender or purple. The blooms last two months during the summer when very few trees are blooming. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes, making it possible for you to find the perfect summer bloomer for your landscape.

How Large do Crape Myrtles Get?

Crape Myrtles come in a variety of growth habits. Shrub forms such as Pocomoke and Bellini mature to 3-4’ wide and tall. Smaller upright tree forms such as Acoma, Double Feature, Hopi and Siren Red grow to 8’, making them suited as a small entrance tree. Mid-size tree forms such as 

Catawba, Tonto, and Regal Red grow to 12-14’, making them suitable as shade trees for smaller yards or as a tall hedge. Taller varieties like Miss Frances, Dynamite, Natchez, and Muskogee grow to over 20’ tall—the perfect shade tree. 

In addition to the unmatched blooms, many crape myrtles provide winter interest with their mottled, colorful bark. Tuscarora and Natchez are in that category. 

How Do I Care for my Crape Myrtle?

Crape myrtles love sun, heat and water. Find the sunniest, wettest spot in your yard—that’s where the crape myrtle will be happiest. Water frequently, preferably holding a hose, for the first year or two. After it has been through a couple of winters, the demand for water decreases a bit, though it will never be suited for an arid location. 

To have the showiest, heaviest bloom set, it is necessary to feed your tree with a slow-release granular food in early spring, then again in the fall. Good foods include Plant Trust, Agriform tablets, and Anderson’s 18-6-12. Underfed trees will have smaller blooms and reduced growth. 

Crape myrtles bloom on new wood. That means you can (and should) trim your plants in early spring before the flower buds form. Remove spent blooms from the previous year, dead wood, and branches that aren’t in line with the tree’s desired shape. Feel free to trim back about 25% of the tree. That will encourage more branching, and thus, more blooms. Refrain from committing “crape murder” by sawing off most of the branches. That practice will result in stubby knots where the cuts were made rather than graceful branching. 

After your new crape myrtle has gone through its first winter, don’t panic if you don’t see leaves when other plants are showing new growth. Crape myrtles are the last tree to leaf out in the spring. The wait is quite worthwhile! 

Are Crape Myrtles Susceptible to Pests?

A notable pest that has become more pronounced recently is Crape Myrtle Bark Scale. It begins with tiny, white, cotton-like insects on the branches. These insects, or scales, excrete large quantities of honeydew, a sticky, sugary waste product. The honeydew in turn attracts black sooty mold that falls over the branches. In extreme cases, it can also land on nearby sidewalks and driveways. It seldom affects the blooms. 

The only effective cure for Crape Myrtle Bark Scale is a drench of Ferti-lome’s Tree and Shrub Drench. Mix it with water in a bucket or watering can, then pour over the roots, not far from the trunk. The product will be absorbed into the plant, where it will remain active for up to one year. It cannot be washed off by rain or watering. 

Crape myrtles offer so much in the way of variable size, shape, and bloom color. By selecting the correct crape myrtle for your yard, you will be guaranteed vibrant summer color in your landscape for years to come.