Be sure to stop by Betty's if you have any questions or need advice.

Watering in Winter. It's not particularly convenient. You have probably stored your hose and covered all outside spigots. However, watering, especially of plants under the eaves of your house where little rain or snow falls will greatly reduce winter plant damage or loss. Check your landscape for areas where the ground seems dry. Wait for a partial thaw and water deeply in these areas. Pay special attention to newly planted shrubs, winter annuals and spring bulbs.

Plant Blueberries now. "Highbush" varieties do best in our area. Be sure to select at least two varieties which bloom at about the same time. This is necessary because blueberries are not self pollinating. The highbush blueberry is an attractive landscape shrub as well as a source of delicious fruits. In maturity it is a dense, rounded shrub 6' high by about 8' wide with dark green summer leaves and excellent fall coloration.

Tree and Shrub Pruning. If you did not already prune your maples, birch trees, dogwoods and fruit trees last month, there is still time before the sap begins to rise. The purpose of pruning is first to remove any dead branches, then any crossing branches to preserve the healthiest of the two. Crossing branches will eventually make bark wounds through which disease and insects may enter. In our humid climate most plants benefit from good air circulation during the growing season. Step back and analyze the growth of your tree. Are there areas that seem too crowded? Prune in that area. Are there bare areas? It's a long term project but the only cure for a bare area is to first make it worse by cutting back those branches nearest the bare area by at least one-third. Over a period of two to three years new side branches will grow from the pruned branches to fill in the bare spots.
Summer blooming deciduous shrubs such as althea, crape myrtle, butterfly bush and smoke tree may be pruned now as well. These shrubs bloom on this year's new growth so will not be harmed by late winter pruning.

Ornamental Grasses. Mid to late February is the time to cut back all your ornamental grasses such as liriope, mondo grass, dwarf pampas grass, fountain and maiden grasses to one or two inches in height. They will be much more attractive this year without last year's dead foliage sticking out here and there. As you are trimming check each clump for dead looking spots toward the middle of the clump. If you find any, it's time to divide that clump. Dig up the entire clump and cut out the dead portion. The remainder may be divided into rough hunks 4-6" in diameter and replanted. This is definitely not a delicate task. You may have to use an ax or saw. The grasses are tough. They will survive almost anything you do to them.

Winter Annuals primarily pansies, violas and dianthus in our area need a little attention right now to look their best in early spring. Pinch off any dead flowers and foliage. Fertilize with 'Osmocote 17-6-10+ with minors' slow release fertilizer and water well if dry.

Early Spring Bulbs. We have recommended heavy layers of mulch during winter for spring flowering bulbs. This was to prevent the bulbs from being heaved out of the ground as the ground froze and thawed in our variable weather. When you can see 1" of growth above the mulch, reduce the amount of mulch around your early spring blooming bulbs to about 2 inches.

Lawn Care. The good news is that your lawnmower is still in hibernation. The bad news can be weeds. If you see broadleaf winter weeds in your lawn, the cure is 'Rockland 3-Way Weed Killer.' Be sure to read the instructions about recommended temperatures when you spray and length of time without rain necessary after you spray.

You have now taken care of what you can see. There are, unfortunately, thousands (maybe only hundreds) of weed seeds in your lawn and planting beds that are just waiting for a little warmer weather to "make your day." There are several excellent products, one of which is 'Gallery', that are effective for up to 8 months if applied before these seeds sprout. These products are expensive but they work. Just think how much you like to hand weed in the summer heat! If you haven't used such a product before it is recommended that you make one application toward the end of February and another in July for the first year of use. In subsequent years only one July application will be necessary. 'Gallery' is effective on broadleaf weeds and many grassy weeds. Due to the expense of the product many people choose to use it strictly in their planting beds and treat lawn weeds with less costly methods.

Insect Control on fruit trees, lilac, hawthorne, euonymus and cotoneaster begins in winter with an application of dormant or horticultural oil. This oil suffocates overwintering pests and their eggs. It is the most successful treatment for scale in particular.

The Fruit and Vegetable Garden. February is a great time to test your garden soil. Buy a kit and 'do-it-yourself' or send in samples to the county extension service. The results of the test will tell you what needs to be added to your soil to promote best fruit and vegetable growth. Amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium to add plus correction of soil pH are the basic questions for a gardener. Our soil tends to be a bit too acid for non-woody plants. The addition of the correct amount of gardener's lime makes an amazing difference in plant growth. Soil pH strongly affects a plant's ability to make use of the other nutrients that you usually add.

Perennial Vegetables. If you have considered adding an asparagus, horseradish or rhubarb bed to your garden, February is the time to do it. Select an area at the edge of your garden where the bed will not be disturbed by tilling you may do. Dig your trench at least two shovel heads deep. Incorporate lots of manure and compost. Set your plants. The first asparagus heads each year are second only to forsythia and daffodils in heralding spring.

Cool Season Vegetables may be started inside from seed now. Cabbage, lettuce … buttercrunch and bibb, Arugula, broccoli and cauliflower, and various herbs are possible selections. These plants will tolerate light frosts when set out in 4-6 weeks. To determine when to start the seeds for a frost tender plant such as tomatoes the rule of thumb is to count 6-8 weeks back from Mother's Day (13 May this year). Many annual flowers may be started from seed now because they do not germinate rapidly and can be held indoors for long periods until all danger of frost is past. The bottom line is to read the seed packet instructions carefully and plan accordingly.

INDOORS

Spring in Winter. Ease 'Spring Fever' by cutting a bouquet of dormant spring flowering tree and shrub branches. Towards the end of February when the flower buds are beginning to swell cut branches of dogwood, saucer or star magnolia, serviceberry, red bud, witch hazel, winter jasmine, forsythia, pussy willow, lilac, apple, quince, plum, peach, cherry or pear and bring them in to bloom. Place the stems in water and keep branches cool until they begin to bloom. Change the water frequently to prolong life.

Valentine's Day. Did someone special give you roses? If so, here's how to avoid that awful third day droop:

1. Wash your vase carefully with soap and a 10% solution of chlorine bleach to sterilize it.
2. Fill with warm water and the recommended amount of flower preservative. The preservative feeds the roses and helps stop algae and bacterial growth (remember that stinky, green water last time?).
3. Cut at least 1" off each rose stem before placing in water.
4. Repeat these steps every other day.

You may wish to dry your roses when they are at their peak (before petals begin to fall). Take yarn or twine and secure each stem separately about an inch apart on the length of yarn. Loosely bind the whole bouquet together and hang upside down in a dark but well ventilated location. Baby's Breath may be included as well. When dry to the touch, create your new bouquet.