WOODY PLANTS
DO NOT PRUNE spring flowering trees
and shrubs after August 1st. The flowering buds for next year's
display are now forming within the plants. Pruning now will remove
these buds. If the weather is dry in August and September, water
these trees and shrubs twice a week, deeply, to promote lush spring
bloom. Do you remember those years when the only azalea blooms were
at the very bottom of the plant? This was caused by lack of water
in August and September of the previous year!
DO PRUNE your broadleaf and needle leaf
evergreens one last time for a pleasing shape over the fall and
winter. Pruning in August leaves enough time for the new growth
flushed out by the pruning to harden off before the first hard freeze.
Right Plant, Right Place? August is the perfect month to evaluate
your garden. Remove any stunted or unsightly shrub and tree plantings
now to leave room for fall planting. Fall is the optimum planting
season in our area for woody plants. The branches and foliage are
beginning to go dormant while the roots will continue to grow, albeit
slowly, over the winter. The plants will be ready in the spring
with healthy root structures to support above the ground growth
in the more difficult heat of the summer.
You may have certain plants that are not dying but are not flourishing
either. Chances are they are planted in the wrong place in your
landscape. Each type of plant, rhododendrons for instance, has its
own cultural requirements. The rhododendron needs moist but well
draining, acid soil and partial shade for optimum health. The addition
of super phosphate to the soil and regular fertilization with a
slow release fertilizer after flowering in the spring will also
promote good plant health. Our clay soil presents a challenge to
the well draining requirement that can be overcome with proper planting
procedure. Plant with at least 1/4 th of the root ball exposed above
surrounding ground level and mulch heavily at the outer edge of
the root ball; lightly toward the stems of the plant. There is a
lot to know about each plant you purchase. Please ask us at Betty's.
We are more than happy to advise you on the proper plant cultivation
practices for your purchases.
If you discover that a prized specimen plant has been planted
in the wrong place, late fall is the very best time to transplant
to a better location. With the above ground portions of the plant
going dormant, the reduction of the size of the root ball will not
be as damaging.
Powdery Mildew, that whitish covering
on the leaves of many of your flowering shrubs and lush herbaceous
plants is at its height in August. It is not only unattractive,
it does limit the ability of the leaves to create food and gradually
(over 3 years or so) results in an weak plant. Weak plants are more
susceptible to additional diseases and insects. The bottom line
is that powdery mildew is not just something to ignore. It flourishes
in hot, humid conditions (our weather). It is retarded by good air
circulation and sufficient sunlight. Take note of which plants are
most affected in your landscape. Prune woody plants at the proper
time to promote better air circulation. Consider pruning back trees
which have grown over your planting beds and block the sun's penetration
to the under story plants. Clean up fallen debris under the affected
plants to stop additional spread of the mildew spores. Finally,
spray those plants such as lilac and roses on a bi-weekly basis
from mid-summer on with a good, systemic fungicide. Severely affected
herbaceous plants should be removed if they are annuals or cut back
if they are perennials. Investigate alternative plantings for next
year. Broad leaved zinnias, for example, are almost hopeless in
our climate but there are some very attractive narrow leaved forms
on the market that are untroubled by powdery mildew.
Bagworms on needle leaved evergreen
shrubs and trees are at their most visible right now. It is too
late to spray. The bagworms are well protected in their cocoons.
Hand pick the cocoons, place them in a non-transparent (if you are
squeamish, like me) trash bag and smash with something heavy before
discarding in the trash.
LAWNS
Prepare for Fall over seeding, partial and even complete lawn renovation
in August. Despite the heat, there is a whole list of things to
do this month to create the lawn you've always wanted (or your neighbors
wish you wanted).
- Grub Control. Grubs damage lawns
as well as attracting the moles and voles you know so well. They
eat the roots of grass. August is the very best time to apply
persistent grub control products, those containing Dylox. All
those beetles of summer have now laid their eggs in your soil.
If you apply Dylox now, you will not need a spring application.
It is critical that you apply the Dylox to your planting beds
as well as over your lawn. The softer soil of the planting beds
is mother beetle's egg laying location of choice.
- Weeds. Does your lawn have broadleaved
or grass type weeds? Bring the weeds to Betty's for identification.
We will help you select the best product for your particular problems.
August is the perfect month for ridding your lawn of these weeds
before re-seeding in late August or early September. Tip: A healthy,
well-watered weed is easiest to kill. Most weed killing products
are systemic and work best when the weed is growing well.
- Thatch. If your lawn has built up
more than 1/4th inch of thatch, it is time to de-thatch. The thatch,
a combination of dried grass clippings and various roots, prevents
sun and water from reaching grass roots. If you have applied a
weed control product, wait until it has killed the weeds to the
roots before de-thatching. Fairly light thatch may be removed
by raking an area horizontally and then vertically. Thatch contains
many weed seeds. Do not put on compost pile. A severe thatch problem
may require special equipment which can be rented.
- Aerate. Aeration is basically poking
holes in the earth to permit water to remain until it is absorbed
and air to reach grass plant roots. It is particularly important
at the top of slopes where water run-off is rapid (and dying grass
most evident). There are a variety of tools for aerating your
lawn which may be rented. If you have not aerated for 2 years,
it would be advisable to do so now.
- Lime. Grass is not an acid loving
plant. Red clay soil is acid. The acidity prevents the grass plants
from absorbing the fertilizers you have so carefully applied.
The answer is lime. The last step for preparing your lawn for
fall seeding is to apply lime in August. New studies have shown
that lime applied at the same time with fertilizer may clump with
the fertilizer and reduce, but not eliminate, the effectiveness
of both products.
NOTE: Fall is the very best time
for your lawn repair. Seed sown now will have all winter and spring
to develop root systems before encountering the stress of next year's
summer heat.
FLOWERS
Flower Beds: Clean up your flower beds
this month. Dead head annuals and some perennials for renewed bloom
in fall. Remove dead or diseased plants to make room for pansies
and chrysanthemums!
Hanging Baskets: Many of our hanging
basket plantings are rather unsightly in August. Prune back to flush
new growth. Water properly! We often think we are watering our hanging
baskets when we are really rinsing the inside of the pots. If the
soil has shrunken away from the sides of the pot, it will be necessary
to take down the pot and submerge it in water until the soil has
completely re-hydrated. Remember to fertilize heavily throughout
the growing season. All that draining water takes a lot of nutrients
with it.
VEGETABLE GARDENS
If your vegetable garden has run its course and you don't want
a fall garden, considering planting a cover crop (often called green
manure) like red clover, crown vetch or annual rye to be turned
under in the spring. Fall crops for planting now, however, include
leaf lettuce, spinach, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, peas, turnips,
onions, radishes, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, snap
beans, carrots and potatoes. Check maturation time against our Oct
15th freeze date when selecting seed.
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